When I left Kathmandu – its energy and acceptance, its poverty and politics – I left with more than photographs, trinkets and stories for my friends and family. I left with a sense of place, purpose and a positive feeling that I had left something behind.
I volunteered in Kathmandu with Volunteers Initiative Nepal (VIN) for a period of 28 days but my experience began long before I landed at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport. It began in an airport in the UK, where I walked through the featureless space from aircraft to Immigration, adjusting to the realisation that another holiday was over.
I was dissatisfied. I wanted a different experience. I wanted to be in a place, not simply to take photographs and spend money. I decided then that I would travel for a year and during this time I would become a volunteer. I set out with simplistic conceit that, I believe, is shared by many westerners who travel and give their time in a developing country; they will make a difference. In Europe many of those who volunteer abroad are students from the middle classes. Having finished school or university, to travel through the Asian continent has become a ‘rite of passage’, to volunteer during that time is a part of the experience. I did not realise there was another name for this; ‘voluntourism’.
I developed my plans on the internet. I was curious about Buddhism, which led me directly to Nepal, where teaching English to Buddhist monks is one of the most popular volunteer programs. This popularity is not in direct proportion to the needs of the population or the challenges they face, but I did not question this. Decision made; all that remained was to find an organisation and program that suited me.
I chose Volunteer Initiative Nepal (VIN), where I was accepted onto the Teaching English in Buddhist Monasteries/Nunneries program. I paid my deposit and waited for the time to arrive.
As my placement approached I began to question my drive to teach English and to do so in a monastery. I was no teacher, in fact I am very nervous in front of large numbers of people. I began to realise that my decision was motivated more by the fascination with Buddhism than from the belief that I could make a meaningful impact on the boys living in the monastery. I knew I would struggle to succeed on these terms. So, when I arrived at Tribhuvan Airport – eyes wide, heart frantic – I was there to work in Kathmandu as VIN’s Web Editor/Content Writer instead. Over a 28 day period I would rewrite to content of all the volunteer programs that VIN operate, as well as developing fresh content for new programs. That would be 45 pages altogether, at least.
Following my three day induction I began work, reading VIN’s existing website and researching Nepal, its history and the problems it faces. From the abstract notion I had had of VIN and Nepal, the real picture began to take shape. I realised that VIN worked with only one community; Jitpur Phedi, rural and marginalised. Since 2007 VIN has developed an integrated approach to empower the community, focusing on women and children. VIN’s ultimate goal is to sustainably develop other marginalised communities one at a time, achieving this by promoting health, education, the development of financial tools and the provision of basic infrastructure. I had, in fact, arrived at an exciting time; VIN were on the verge of beginning work in a new community in the district of Okhaldunga.
VIN invites volunteers from all over the world to become involved in their women’s, children’s, construction and health programs in these communities. But VIN also invites volunteers to work with monks, orphans, in agro-farming, journalism, animal care, climate change research and traffic management. But these programs do not directly benefit rural communities; I was confused.
However, as I read more I slowly began to accept that a volunteer experience is not a simple donation of time where it was most needed. It is far more complicated and caters as much for the needs of those giving the time as those receiving it. An industry has evolved to become known as ‘voluntourism’. As more travellers seek alternative experiences, businesses and charities have recognised this demand. In many locations the monasteries, orphanages, schools and animal sanctuaries of developing countries have become a sort of playground for these adventurers. After all, had I not set off with visions of incense, alms and wisdom I would experience when I stayed at a monastery? It was reasonable to assume that others would feel the same.
As far as VIN is concerned, international volunteers are a valuable resource. VIN does not work for profit and receives no government funding. The program fee that each volunteer pays to VIN and any additional fundraising they do, contributes towards that primary goal; empowerment of rural communities. But not all of the volunteers actually work in the community. After all, there are no monasteries in Jitpur Phedi, nor an orphanage. To attract international volunteers and the income they generate, demand must be met by providing the programs they are looking for. So, while the individual embarks on the experience they wanted, where ever that happens to be, a large proportion of the program fee they pay goes towards VIN’s core goal. VIN employs nearly 20 staff. These staff members not only ensure the consistency of the work in the rural communities but also play a huge part in providing a secure platform from which international volunteers can give their time effectively.
For VIN voluntourism is a business strategy for achieving their objectives. For other organisations, it is a means of profit. The ethics and effects of this have come publicly into question. Critics have voiced concern for orphans who may feel regular abandonment following brief and intense relationships with one tourist after another. In some countries children who are not in fact orphans have been placed in orphanages by their families to play on the sympathies of visiting tourists. Others have queried whether young volunteers really have the life and practical skills to make a difference, or whether the only person they are really helping is themselves. The debate continues to rage.
As I made my way through the 28 day placement, I saw some of Kathmandu city and the surrounding valley. However, what I came to value most was my daily routine in the Balaju Bypass suburb. Waking at 05:00 to the sounds of shutters, engines and dogs, walking in the hushed dark with my host family to exercise in the local park, buying the newspaper each day and the smile of recognition I received with it, walking to work past the shops and tiny temples, where all around me life was erupting. I lived with a family who I slowly began to know and when we could not exchange words, we exchanged smiles. I devoured the delicious food that Himulchal, House Mother, put before me and smiled through the pain as she worked with determination to wedge red and gold glass chura onto my wrists. On my day off I visited the local animal sanctuary. I even wrote a letter to my favourite newspaper, which, to my delight, was published the following week. But most importantly, I finished rewriting the website. For 28 days, Balaju Bypass felt like home and whatever label I had travelled there under, I felt I was something more than just a tourist.
‘Voluntourism’ is an industry, a label and a debate. Within that label there are huge variations in experience and motivation, so it is up to the volunteer to know what they want. Initially naive, I eventually came to see volunteering for VIN as an exchange; desire for experience traded for a moderate sum of money. Together we enjoyed cultural exchange and a lasting relationship. I would not hesitate to recommend a volunteer experience, I would simply apply this caveat: do careful research and ask probing questions. A potential volunteer should know where they wish to stand beneath the umbrella of voluntourism and they should seek out an organisation that compliments this. I was inspired by the focus and determination of Bhuprendra Ghimire, Executive Director of VIN. He has worked tirelessly to achieve what for him has been a life-long vision and I accept that voluntourism is a sustainable strategy by which to do this.
By Joanne Gibson
United Kingdom
VIN Returned Volunteer
Published on: 09 Jan 2014
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