It’s 3 a.m. in Kathmandu. The city still sleeps, cradled by the silence of the night, as four figures slip out of their lodging, backpacks on, eyes half-closed. Along with Tylian, Paola, and Méline, we had set our sights on a unique experience: witnessing the sunrise over the majestic Himalayan mountains from the famed viewpoint of Nagarkot.
The idea sounded romantic. And it was. But as is often the case in Nepal, the adventure turned out to be far from what we expected. Between bumpy roads, unreliable transport, and surprises as constant companions, our little trip morphed into a true odyssey. A touristic one, of course, but above all, a human one.
Along the way, we met a series of unforgettable people: a curious taxi driver, a café owner whose smile was as warm as her ginger tea, and a group of student hikers sharing their dry biscuits like national treasure. Each of them, in their own way, left a mark. Far from the postcard version of travel, it’s these encounters that make the journey worthwhile.
When we finally reached Nagarkot, breathless, hopeful. We scanned the horizon for the telltale snowy peaks. But that morning, the sky had chosen to keep its curtain closed. Clouds clung to the ridges, stubbornly hiding the Himalayan giants. No glimpse of Everest or the other mythical ranges.
And yet, the show was still magical. Before us, the valley slowly awakened. The green hills turned golden, villages came to life, birdsong replaced the city’s honking horns. Then, as if on cue, every rooster in the valley began to crow, launching an improvised fanfare to greet the coming day. It was a silent, humble sunrise, but a deeply beautiful one.
Nagarkot lives up to its reputation. Not necessarily for the views (though they must be breathtaking on a clear day), but for the feeling that fills the air. A blend of serenity, simplicity, and the deeply human warmth so characteristic of Nepal.
We returned tired, a bit disappointed by the fog, but happy. Happy to have taken the leap, to have shared the moment with such great companions, and to have touched, in our own small way, the true essence of travel: the unexpected, the connections, and the beauty found in the details.
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